The Waters of the Ancients – Saturnia Hot Springs

While the Maremma is known for its unspoiled coastline along the Tuscan Mediterranean, sometimes you want to heat things up.  Nothing relaxes the body and soothes the mind like a soak in a hot bath.  The ancient dwellers of this land knew that well, and their sacred spa remained a well-kept secret until rather recently.

The scenic thermal springs of Saturnia were frequented by the Etruscans and then turned upscale by the Romans, who built an orderly bath complex and made it aSaturnia Hot Springs health destination.  Local lore says the mineral-rich waters were a gift from the gods, a pacifying pool created when Saturn launched a lightning bolt to earth in his impatience with the wars among his mortals.  After the medieval era, malaria demoralized the area, until the spa and its curative properties – not to mention its outstanding beauty – helped resurrect it again.

The spring of Saturnia doesn’t bubble up placidly; it gushes from the ground in a hot river of sulphuric goodness, pouring out at 800 liters per second and flowing freely for all to enjoy.  At the most picturesque points, the steamy stream tumbles frothily over a series of rocks, cascading along a wide waterfall where natural pools, worn by water pressure and built-up mineral deposits, have formed – creating perfect open-air bathtubs where you get to immerse yourself in water that is a constant 37 degrees.  There is nothing as relaxing as sitting below the waterfall enjoying the nature-powered hydro-massage while enjoying the breeze and the lovely landscapes.  Brush and trees form a sort of screen on one side.  You can immerse in the river before it hits the waterfalls, too.  The muscles loosen and stress drifts away like a faint memory.  The skin softens from the sulphur and calcium.

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The health-giving properties of the mineral water have been appreciated for two millennia.  It is said to aid digestion, cure respiratory ailments, aid arthritis, and solve skin conditions.  There is a clinical-type health establishment where specific problems can be treated, and there a spa for mud therapy or massage.

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The village of Saturnia is just a whisper of a town, but a little jewel.  It is set among softly rolling hills covered with olive groves, less an an hour from the Mediterranean and Monte Amiata alike.  The borgo crowns a hilltop and is capped by a crenellated castle.  Picturesque walkways wend through the compact historic core.  It is rife with Roman remnants, including a well-preserved gateway, fortification walls, ancient columns, and the foundations of the Roman bath complex, testimony of Saturnia’s thermal importance throughout history.

The open-air free hot springs is called Le Cascate del Mulino, because an old mill house that once utilized the water’s force (now abandoned) sits there.