Mozzarella di Bufala – Tenuta Vannulo

In the shadow of the ancient Greek ruins of Paestum is a buffalo ranch that some days garners more visits than the historic site on their doorstep.  The popular draw at Tenuta Vannulo is the lusciously creamy mozzarella di bufala, a decadence worthy of the gods that were once worshipped in the temples nearby.

Vannulo is the southern-most stop along the mozzarella trail, and one of the finest producers in the specialized mozzarella di bufala industry.  A hedge-lined lane leads to the tidy but sprawling farm, which became certified organic in 1996.  Lazy water buffaloes lounge in the fertile flatlands, content to wallow in the mud and make eyes at visitors in exchange for their prized milk.  The animals were introduced in Italy in the 7th century as beasts of burden, but cheese making from the delicately-flavored milk started in the 12th century.

 

The majority of mozzarella di bufala producers are centered in the region of Campania in several production zones, though many connoisseurs insist that the cheese made by the caseifici south of Salerno is the best.  The fertile plains produce excellent grains and herbs that uniquely influence the milk’s flavor.  At Vannulo, much of their 200-hectare farm (nearly 500 acres) is devoted to growing the feed that nourish their 600 buffaloes, using organic methods.

The cheese is produced the old-fashioned way – by hand.  The milk is heated and the curds are kneaded and stretched, then formed into balls or braids.  It is soaked in brine, giving it a firm exterior while maintaining a creamy, almost liquid interior.  Large glass windows give visitors a front-row view of the cheese-making process.  Since no preservatives are added mozzarella this fresh should be eaten within three days of its production.

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Other cheeses available are rich ricotta and buttery smoked provola, but the majority of the energy and milk goes to the mozzarella, which is usually sold out by about 2:00 p.m. daily, despite the fact that each day’s production of nearly 900 pounds of cheese is proffered only from their little farm shop.

But Vannulo has another draw as well – gelato di bufala!  Velvety rich gelato made from buffalo milk and cream, which can also topped with bufala whipped cream!  Their cozy café also crafts a fine cappuccino made with buffalo milk, and serves homemade yogurts and puddings, as well.

Any visit to Paestum is time well spent, but after visiting the ancient temples be sure to pay homage to the keepers of the culinary flame and enjoy mozzarella fit for deity.